Your Collection

Adding an Item

Open the item in the catalog and choose + Collection. The form has a few sections: Your Copies (when you have more than one), Photos, The Item (condition and grading), Item Purchase, and Status & Notes. Everything except the item itself is optional, so you can add something in seconds and fill in the rest later by choosing Edit on its card.

After a new entry saves, you're offered a chance to add photos right away. Skip it if you'd rather not.

Items That Aren't in the Catalog

The catalog only lists items we can price from real sales or a retail price. If something you own isn't there, you can add it as a private item, on plans that include it (Acrylic). A private item is yours alone: it never shows in the catalog, search or anyone else's view, and nobody else can open it.

1. Search the catalog first; it may be there under another name.
2. Choose Add a private item at the top of My Collection, or under the catalog's "No Collectibles Match" message.
3. Fill in the name and format and choose the brand. If the brand or line isn't listed, pick Not listed: I'll type it and type it in. Year, box number, barcode, subjects, notes and a photo are optional.
4. Choose Create & Add to My Collection; the usual entry form opens for your copy.

Private items have no market value. Use Set My Own Value on each copy and it counts in your totals. You can list a private item on For Sale; its sale doesn't feed the catalog's values. All of yours are listed on My private items (the link at the top of My Collection), including ones you haven't added a copy of yet. To change or delete one, open it from there or from your collection (it's marked Private) and use Edit Item or Delete Item; it can only be deleted once no copies of it are left. If you move to a plan without private items, the ones you have stay; you just can't add new ones. Think an item should be in the catalog? Tell us, ideally with a link to a real sale.

Copies and Quantity

• Quantity is for identical copies bought together at the same price and condition.
• When copies differ (one mint, one bent; one gift, one bought), give each its own row in Your Copies. Duplicate copies a row so you only change what's different.
• Each copy can be listed for sale, sold or removed on its own without disturbing the others.
• My Collection groups the copies of one item on a single card, and the entry page lists them individually.
• Removing several copies: on a card's ... menu, Delete All Copies removes every copy of that item at once (it asks first). To remove only some, choose Choose Copies to Remove..., tick them in Your Copies (the top box ticks them all) and choose Remove Selected. Copies listed for sale are kept; withdraw the listing on For Sale first. Removing can't be undone.
• A copy on the wrong item (an import that recorded a chase as its common, or two different versions as two copies of one): in Your Copies, choose Move on that copy, or tick several and choose Move Selected. The item's own variant family (its chase, exclusives and other versions) is listed first; otherwise search the catalog by name, box number or barcode. Labels show what sets each version apart (an exclusive, a sticker, Signed by someone), and Moving from at the top shows the item the copy is on now, labelled the same way, to compare. View ↗ opens an item to check it, Choose picks it, and Confirm Move moves the copy. Everything recorded on it goes too: what you paid, condition, photos, autographs, lists and notes. For a row with several identical pieces you can move just some of them; they become their own row on the other item with the same details (shipping and fees shared out), and the photos and autographs stay with the ones left behind. If the right item isn't in the catalog yet, add it first, then move the copy. A copy imported from hobbyDB also teaches the import: importing again puts that hobbyDB item on the item you moved it to. Copies listed for sale have to be withdrawn first.

Condition, Packaging and Grading

• Item condition uses the site's condition list. For formats where the box matters (Funko-style figures, for example) there is also a package condition, and you can tick Out of Box if the item has been taken out of its packaging, even if it was put back.
• If the item was graded by a company (for example a grading or authentication service), tick Professionally Graded and choose the company and grade. Graded copies are valued separately from ungraded ones.
• Condition, packaging and grading affect an item's value, because a sealed, mint box and a loose figure are not worth the same. See Values.

What You Paid

• Plastic plan: enter a single Purchase Price (for one piece) and the Purchase Date (just the year, or month and year, is fine if that's all you have). Tick Received Free for a gift, trade or find; a free item has a cost of zero, so a later sale counts as pure profit, while a blank price just means you didn't record it.
• Vinyl and Acrylic: an itemized purchase. Item price (for one piece), discount (an amount for the whole order or a percentage), tax (an amount or a percentage after the discount), shipping and fees. The total is worked out as you type and written out under the fields so you can check it.
• An entry that already has itemized costs keeps showing them if your plan later changes.
• Where you bought it (a shop, a marketplace, a convention) and any details can be recorded too.

Paying in Another Currency

Bought something in euros while your account is in dollars? Next to Purchase Date is a Paid In menu.

• It starts on your own currency. Pick another one and type the prices exactly as they appeared on the receipt.
• When you save, every amount (price, discount, tax, shipping, fees) is converted to your currency using the exchange rate for the purchase date. Percentages are left alone.
• The form shows the rate it found and what the total comes to in your currency before you save.
• Weekends and bank holidays don't have a published rate, so the last working day before is used. A blank or future date uses today's rate.
• Rates come from the European Central Bank's daily reference rates, which cover about 30 major currencies (plus the euro). If your currency isn't in the menu, enter the converted amount yourself.
• The entry remembers what you actually paid, the currency and the rate used, and shows it on its page ("Item paid in EUR: €45.00 (1 EUR = $1.0850 on Mar 3, 2024)"). Your totals and profit figures use the converted amount.
• If you edit an old entry and change its prices, enter them in your own currency, or choose the other currency again and re-enter them.

Photos

Add your own photos of your copy on the entry form or its page. The number you can add per entry depends on your plan (see Plans and Limits). These are your own photos of your own copy; the catalog's photos for the item are separate. Your entry's first photo is what shows on its card.

Status, Notes and Where It's Stored

• Status is a label you choose from the site's list (for example, on display or in storage). Statuses that mean a piece is away from you (Pre-Order, Away Getting Signed, Away Being Graded, On Loan) count toward Pieces in Motion on your Dashboard and the "pieces not in hand" line on My Collection.
• Notes are free text only you see.
• Storage Location picks a standard room or lets you type your own, up to the limit for your plan. Manage Your Locations renames or removes them; they're also on My Profile under Preferences. You can filter My Collection by location.

Autographs and Remarques

On plans that include it (see Plans and Limits), the entry form has an Autograph & Remarque section, with a tab for each signer or remarque artist the item lists. For each you can record who signed it, when and where, what you paid, whether it was signed at an event, and the authentication. Items that come pre-signed are their own items in the catalog; use that item rather than adding a signature to the plain one.

Under Proof of Signing, tick the box if you have a photo or video of the celebrity signing your copy, and add the photo if you like. It shows on the entry's page.

Inscription From: once Inscribed is ticked, you can also record where the quote comes from. Pick TV Show (show, season, episode, episode title and the time it starts), Movie (movie and the time it starts), Video Game (game and where in it), Comic / Book (title, issue or volume, and page) or Other (title and where), plus an optional link to the clip or episode. Times can be typed like 12:34 or 1:02:45, and the title suggests the catalog's subjects as you type. Your copy's page shows it as one line (JoJo's Bizarre Adventure: Season 1, Episode 5, at 12:34) with a Watch link, and the collection export includes it. It's only on your own copy, never the catalog. Click the chosen kind again to clear it.

When you record an autograph you got In Person (or through a Consignor) with a date and what you paid, those prices help set that celebrity's going rate on Celebrity Pricing. Only the event, the day and the prices are used; your name and collection are never shown. Anything you got free ($0) isn't counted, and a price far from the usual going rate is checked by a curator before it counts.

On plans that include it, a signed copy's page also shows a Signed Estimate: the unsigned item's value (its retail price when it has no recorded sales; for a signed edition, the unsigned version in its variant family with the same exclusive, sticker and traits, or the closest one) plus, for each signer, their going rate from Celebrity Pricing (their most recent in-person price) for exactly what's on your copy: the autograph on that kind of item (a print or personal item, a poster, or a premium item such as a Funko), and any quote, character name, personalization or doodle, plus what you paid for authentication. Every line shows where its price came from, and the total is compared with what you paid. A remarque adds the artist's Remarque going rate. Selfies and recordings aren't counted (they aren't on the item), and anyone with no going rate yet shows a dash.

Browsing and Filtering Your Collection

• Switch between Grid and List. Your default view and sort are set on My Profile under Preferences.
• Filter by status, brand, category, theme, subject (the characters, people and franchises an item features), storage location, list, signed items and more. The chips above the results show what's applied; click one to remove it. With a filter on, a line under the chips totals what's shown: pieces, value and what you paid.
• Multiple Copies shows only the items you have two or more of (several copies, or one copy with a quantity of 2 or more). The Collection Size card also says how many items have more than one copy; click that line to filter to them.
• Your search, filters, sort and page are kept while you open a copy (to edit it, say) and come back. Reloading the whole page in the browser starts fresh. ↻ Refresh loads your collection again without losing them, handy after changing something in another tab.
• Search matches name, brand, product line, box number, the maker's item number (Mfr. #), exclusives, stickers and production traits; each word only has to match one of them ("maz target" finds a Target exclusive Maz Kanata). Accents don't matter: "lucio" finds "Lúcio".
• Each card has an Edit button and a ⋯ menu with the other actions, such as listing a copy for sale (on plans that include For Sale).

Lists

• Lists are your own groupings, any way you like: "Needs Pictures", "Top Shelf", "Christmas 2026". Only you see them. A copy can be on as many lists as you want.
• Manage Lists (under the cards at the top of My Collection) makes, edits (renames) and deletes lists, and shows how many copies each holds. Deleting a list never deletes its copies.
• To put copies on a list: tick lists on a copy's form (under Notes), use Lists... in a card's ⋯ menu (all copies of that item at once), or filter My Collection first and use Add Shown to List in the Manage Lists window to add everything shown in one go. Take Shown off List does the reverse.
• Pick a list in the All Lists filter to see just its copies (or Not on Any List). A copy's page shows its lists; click one to open it. Add Another Copy starts on the same lists.
• The downloaded spreadsheet has a Lists column, and downloading with a list picked gives you just that list.
• Someone else's items: keeping or selling pieces for a friend or family member? When you make a list (or Edit one), tick Someone else's items and type their name. The list shows For and their name.
  • Those pieces still show in My Collection, filter and download like any other, but they're not counted in your own totals: Collection Size, Estimated Value, Total Spent, Collection Stats, your Dashboard and your profile's collector stats. The Collection Size card says how many pieces you keep for others.
  • Pick their list under All Lists to see their own totals (pieces, value and what was paid) on the line above the cards. Mine Only in the same menu (shown once you have a list of someone else's items) shows everything except someone else's items, and the cards' shortcuts (like 1 entry has no price recorded, or a brand or status in the stats) open that way, so what you see matches the count you clicked.
  • What you keep when one sells: pick one under the name. You keep nothing; You keep a % of the sale total (the sold price plus the shipping the buyer paid, e.g. 15% to cover taxes on the sale); or They pay you a % of what you paid (of the copy's total cost, e.g. 30%). Selling fees and shipping always come out of their side. Each sale keeps the rule it was sold under, so changing it later only affects sales from then on. Part of the Acrylic plan by default.
  • On For Sale, their sales show with For and their name, your share, and what's owed to them (see Selling for Someone Else). Only your share counts in your profit. Copies sold out of a lot stay on the lot's lists.
  • A piece belongs to one person, so it can be on only one list of someone else's items (it can still be on any of your own lists too). Pieces already on another person's list are skipped when you add them.
  • Deleting the list, or unticking Someone else's items, makes those pieces count as yours again.
• How many lists you can have depends on your plan (Plans and Limits). Lists you already have keep working if your plan changes.

Sending Pieces to Another Member

You can move pieces from your collection into another member's, with everything you've recorded about them, so nothing has to be typed in again or photographed again.

• Sending: on My Collection, on a copy's own page, use Transfer on a copy's row under Your Copies (for some of a lot, choose how many) or Transfer All Copies beside Edit Copies; or Transfer to Member... in a card's ⋯ menu (with more than one copy, tick which ones go, and for a lot of identical copies how many: sending some of a lot splits it, and you keep the rest), or Transfer Shown... for everything your search and filters show (filter by a list first to send a whole list). Enter their username exactly as they sign in; there's no way to look members up, so you'll need it from them. Add a note if you like.
• Clear Purchase Details: tick it to leave out what you paid, when, where from, and your autograph costs (for a gift or a sale). Otherwise everything goes: conditions, grading, purchase details, status, notes, autographs and remarques, and photos. Your storage locations and lists stay behind.
• They accept first. Until then the pieces stay with you, marked Transfer Pending, and you can cancel on Transfers. Pieces listed for sale, sold, or with sales in their history can't be sent (those sales are your record).
• Receiving: a number on My Dashboard in the sidebar, and a notice on the Dashboard, tell you when pieces are waiting. On Transfers you see what's coming, with photos, and choose where they go: No List, One of My Lists, or A New List (tick Someone Else's Items if you're keeping or selling them for someone). Then Accept or Decline. Each piece's notes get a line saying who it came from and when. All the photos come with them, even past your plan's photo limit (you just can't add more to that piece).

Stats

The row of cards at the top of My Collection gives you the headline numbers: how many pieces you own, their estimated value, and, depending on your plan, what you've spent. The Wish List card shows how many items are on your wish list, what your targets add up to, and how many are valued at or under your target right now. The For Sale card shows how many pieces you have listed, what you're asking for them, and any open offers. Pieces you've sold aren't counted, since they're no longer in your collection. Click either card to open that page.

See All Stats opens the full breakdown: your collection by status, your autographs and remarques (pieces, signers, artists and what signing cost), your top brands, categories, themes and signers, spending by year, and charts of what you've spent and added over time, by week, month or year. Click any row in a breakdown to jump back to My Collection showing just those pieces. Which cards you see depends on your plan.

Downloading Your Collection

Export CSV on My Collection downloads what's currently shown (so filter first if you want part of it) as a spreadsheet: item details, condition, price, dates, storage location and value columns. Copies imported from hobbyDB also have their hobbyDB copy number (HDBC...) in the last column, Imported copy #, so you can match the download row by row with hobbyDB's own export. The Wish List has its own download. Your data is yours to keep.

Fixing or Removing an Entry

• Edit changes anything about an entry; changes apply to that entry only.
• Removing a copy asks you to confirm. If you sold it, mark it sold on the For Sale page instead, so your sale history and profit are kept.